A Journey of Faith and Family

November 8, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 8, 2009 – “Towards the Galilee of the Gentiles”

 

            This is Sunday morning, really Monday for people here.  The streets are busy, horns honking, school children running for buses, shops are open, etc.  Seems very strange for a Sunday.  We’ll be doing Eucharist this evening in Nazareth.

            Today we will head for Caesarea, on the Mediterranean Coast, more of Herod the Great’s empire (and Pilate), then on to Nazareth, now one of the largest cities in Israel, divided into two parts – the Hill is Israeli, and the lower part is Muslim.  In Jesus’ day, there were probably 200-400 residents.

            Andrew, on the bus reminds us that there were two uprisings in Jerusalem, one in the 4^th Century BC, and the second, which resulted in the destruction of the Temple in 66 AD.  In Jesus’ day, not long before the second uprising, there was great tension between Rome and the Jews.  Also, there was a large gap between the rich and the poor.  Three classes on the top of the pyramid were: 1. Urban elite, (including Priestly families), who lived in aristocratic centers; 2. Civil servants, Scribes Pharisees, Tax Collectors; 3: Merchant class.  This group accounted for about 2% of the population.  At the bottom of the pyramid were: 4. Skilled workers (Jesus); 5. Artisans; 6.  Peasant villagers, day laborers, etc. (some had been landowners, forced to sell to pay taxes, etc.  This group made up about 98% of the population.  Leaders were very aware of the tension and unease, and acted quickly to put down any potential threats.

            We arrive in Casearea, today the wealthiest city in Israel.  As we near the Mediterranean, we pass a golf course.  There are marinas, hotels, etc.  Herod the Great built Caesarea for himself and Augustus Caesar.  He also built a much-needed port to enable trade.  He built a Temple into/over the water.  There was a huge theater, hippodrome, and an aquaduct.  Nice place for a beach get-away!

            We next headed to Nazareth, via Megiddo, which sits in the middle of a vast plain between the Mediterranean and the hills near Nazareth.  The road up to Nazareth is steep, with dramatic views of the plain.  After lunch we walk to the Basilica of the Annunciation.  This is a very contemporary building, built about 1967, over the traditional place (still inside, a Byzantine era grotto) where the Angel Gabriel announced to Mary that she would bear a son.  The 2-400 people who lived here then could fit in one corner of the place.  As our guide put it, “quite a building for a humble unwed mother!”

            During our quiet time, I went up to the Church of St. Joseph, at the other end of the complex, built in 1914 on the site on 12^th Century Church.  The depiction of the Holy Family over the Altar was very interesting.  It shows Jesus as a 10-year-old.  Usually we see him as a baby or as an adult.

            We walked up to the well Mary would have gone to daily, then another block to the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Gabriel, which also celebrates the Annunciation to Mary.  There were lots of icons and paintings, including one, on an arch opposite of St. Peter, of St. Paul.

            Like many places in the Holy Land, there is no clear way of knowing where exactly these events took place. Churches, through the centuries, have built shrines celebrating various scriptural events, which may or may not be on the actual sites.  In many cases, there are “competing’ sites as well.  It is wonderful to see the many ways we recall, celebrate and honor the people and events that are central to our faith here in its “cradle.”

            One of the realities that I had not been aware of was the subject of an article in today’s paper.  The U.S. State Department issued a finding that Israel’s government discriminates against non-Jewish holy sites here.  They do not provide resources to maintain them, as they do Jewish sites, much less protect them. 

            We are staying the next two nights at a very nice Monastery, Beit Aram, run by an Italian order, here in Nazareth.

   Peace,

     Bob

           

 

 

           

November 7, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 7, 2009 - “Free Day”

 

            Today is a “free day,” or, for $60 per person we could go on an excursion to Masada, a Dead Sea float, and Qumran.  Since I have been to/done all three, and we saw Herodian yesterday [Masada is another hilltop palace built by Herod the Great, near the Dead Sea, now only ruins], and Susan brought no bathing suit to “float” in the Dead Sea [high salt/mineral content] and all one does at Qumran is get out of the bus to look at the hillsides where you see some cave entrances, we decided to skip the trip.  One other Episcopal Priest stayed back, otherwise the entire group left at 8:00 am and returned about 5:30 pm.

            We had a more leisurely, but satisfying day.  We left about 10:30 am to go visit a couple of the quarters in the Old City we had not yet experienced.

            First, we made our way to the Armenian quarter, which is about as far away as you can go from where we are (We are outside the northeast corner, and the Armenian quarter is in the southwest corner of the Old City).  We went to the Jaffa Gate, and went into the  Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem.  Ruins at the Citadel there date from the 7^th Century BC.  Over the centuries it was added onto, and served as a source of protection from attack from the west and the south.  There were great views of the city from the top of what is left of one of the towers.  There is also a model of ancient Jerusalem which was done in the 19^th Century.

            We wandered in the Armenian quarter, saw many Jews on their way home from Sabbath services, had lunch, and looked into Christ Church, the other Anglican Church in Jerusalem. It was the first Protestant Church built in Jerusalem (1849 – fifteen years after St. Paul’s, Franklin).  It has a ministry with and for Messianic Jews.

            As we walked through the Jewish quarter, we noticed the different modes of dress, especially of Jewish men.  Apparently everything from hats to coats to fabrics distinguish between different sects.

            One thing about Jerusalem, the military/police presence is very visible.  There are young men and women with machine guns walking among the crowds.  In the shops, toy guns are very popular.  Here is a picture of a man carrying a young girl who is holding a toy machine gun in her arms. 

A sad commentary, it seems to me, on the reality of life now, and perhaps for generations to come, in this city.

          

We are heading to Galilee for three days tomorrow morning.  I do not know what kind of internet access I will have, so if I do not post to the blog for a few days, I’ll try to catch up on Wednesday.  Speaking of the internet, when you Google something here, the options come up in Hebrew, and on the right hand of the screen.  Peace, or:

          Bob

 

 

           

November 6, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 6, 2009 – The Birth of the Messiah

 

            Began beautiful day with a 20 minute ride to Herodian.  It was built on a man-made hill between Jerusalem and Bethlehem by Herod the Great (37 BC – 4 AD).  There was also a guest house and pool at the bottom of the hill.  Recently discovered are the remains of what was probably Herod the Great’s burial tomb.

            Stephen Need said that we came here to contrast Herod the Great with Jesus.  Herod was known as ‘the builder,” whose many grandiose projects were/are symbols of physical and political power.  Often such work also reflects fear and/or paranoia (note height of mountain, steep slopes, etc.).  Height also projects image of power and authority. 

            Contrast this with Jesus, and his message of the Kingdom of God, which is built, not on foundations or mountains, but on Love.  Jesus is never likened to Herod’s empire, yet he was murdered by the empire.

                        This raises the issue of anti-Semitism, the Gospel of John and Good Friday.  Was it “the Jews” who killed Jesus?  Stephen maintains that the Crowd in the Gospel accounts of Jesus’ arrest and trial were not day-in-day-out Jews, but more likely those who had gained access to Pilate and would have been granted entry to the Court.  They too were the ones most threatened by Jesus’ growing popularity, and they would have been the one’s Pilate came out to ask, “what shall I do with this man?”  This makes me (Bob Cowperthwaite) want to re-think Holy Week, and especially Good Friday.

            We went on to Shepherds field, with caves.  Many scholars now agree that Jesus was probably not born in a “farm shed,” but more likely in a cave, much like that under the Church of the Nativity.  It would have been typical for shepherds to live in caves in the winter.  The cave would have been large enough to have a section for animals and a section for people.  Translations in Luke for manger = “feeding trough,” and Inn = “place for humans” (not Holiday Inn.  So the part of the cave for humans had no room, and Mary gave birth in the part for sheep, using feeding trough.  I note, that scholars may agree on this, but all the gift shops are selling westernized crèches still!  This image of a cave is compelling, as it reminds one of a womb, of simplicity, of humility. 

In the cave, we sing, “O Little Town of Bethlehem,” written by The Rev. Phillips Brooks, an Episcopal Priest and long-time Rector of Church of the Advent in Boston.  He wrote the lyrics while visiting the Holyland. He was sitting on a hillside overlooking Bethlehem shortly after the end of the Civil War.  It was first popularized as a children’s hymn.  Look at the words, and think of him, coming out of the terrible experience of the Civil War.

We next move to the Shepherds Field Church, designed by Berlucci,  a favorite of our guide.  It is bright, open, filled with light and life.

After lunch at the Tent restaurant (with its roof of goat-skins, we went on into Bethlehem.  The Church of the Nativity is the oldest Christian Church in continuous use.  There are mosaics under parts of the current floor that date from the time of Constantine.  Several denominations have access to it, and hold services there daily.  It was very crowded, so we were taken through another door into St. Catherine’s Church, built in the 19^th Century, attached to the Church of the Nativity.  Through it there is access to the cave where Jerome secluded himself to translate Holy Scriptures into Latin in the 4^th Century.

We were very disappointed that we were unable to go down to the Shrine of the Nativity itself, having spent the whole day on the nativity theme.  There are several people staying for a few days after the course is over, and we may try to go back together, though Bethlehem is in the West Bank, and we will have to get back through a checkpoint, which could be problematical.

Peace,

     Bob

           

           

 

 

           

November 5, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 5, 2009 – Jewish Spirituality (or Spiritualities)

 

            Andrew Mayes began the morning with a reading from Deuteronomy 6:4-9, “Hear, O Israel, the Lord your God is One….”  He then went on to talk about eight marks of Jewish spirituality: Creation, Covenant, Continuity, Community, Celebration, Connections, Combat and Challenge.  He referenced Martin Buber’s I and Thou, in thinking about how to encounter one another as equals, not as objects.  It made me think about the theme of General Convention last summer, “Ubuntu,” which is the African concept that, “I am, because you are.”  The bottom line is that we are all in this together.

            After lunch we went to the “Shrine of the Book,” and the Model of Jerusalem – both parts of the Jerusalem Museum.  The Model (1:50 scale) is of Jerusalem as it looked in the year 66, just before the revolt against the Romans (who, among other things sacrificed pork on the Altar of the Temple), which resulted in the destruction of the city and the 2^nd Temple.  As the model shows, Jerusalem was twice the size of the Old City today, it was an ancient city at its peak.

            The Shrine of the Book is covered by a roof in the shape of a lid to one of the pots which hid the Dead Sea Scrolls form the Romans (and everyone else) until a shepherd found the first one in 1948 in one of the Qumran caves.  These were inhabited by an Essene sect of Judaism which was very conservative, and, among other things, thought Temple worship of their day was no longer “Holy.”  Archeologists found more scrolls, hidden in pots in caves in a mountainside near the Red Sea.  They contain all but two books of the Old Testament, as well as many worship materials and rules of life for the Essene community.  No pictures were allowed inside the museum.

            Note: from today’s “Haaretz” Newspaper: ‘Ministry Plans to Slash Tax on New Cars to 60%.”  That’ll get your attention!  Right now, the tax on a new car is something like 85%, down from 95% in 2005.  Currently, the average age of cars on the road here is 7 years old.  Few cars you see on the street do not have dents.  Walking and driving here is truly by “jungle rules.”  Pedestrians are supposed to have the right-of-way, but you have to be pretty brave to step off the curb around here.

            After dinner, the Rev. Canon Robert Edmonds who is the Chaplain to the Bishop and Canon Pastor at the Cathedral spoke about the ministry in this province, made up of Israel, Jordan, Syria, and Northern Africa.  There are 37 congregations.  They have strong educational and hospital ministries.  Susan and I hope to at least see, and perhaps participate in some of their work during the days we are here after the course ends.

            Tomorrow we go to the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.

Peace,

   Bob

 

 

 

           

November 4, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 4, 2009 – “Explorations”

 

            It is a beautiful morning. I go out to get a newspaper, and realize I can make it back in time for the 7:30 am Eucharist at the Cathedral.  During our Prayer of Consecration, we heard the call to prayer from a local Mosque’s minaret, then the chanting of prayers.  It was a reminder of the multiple identities of this city.

            Dean Stephen Need began the day with part of a new DVD put out by the Franciscans, “Terra Sancta,” which has segments on many parts of the Holy Land. (We need this for St. Paul’s).  Stephen reminded us that in this land of three faiths and two peoples, God’s presence is found in places of beauty and in places of pain.

            He then told us that in order to “experience” the city, we will be sent out in groups of four.  No college members of the College staff are allowed to accompany us.  Each group will be sent to one of the four ‘Quarters” (refers to living areas, not equal parts of a whole), of the Old City, Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian.  We are given maps (of a sort) and told to go ahead, “get lost, meet people, determine what the boundaries of your quarter are, what is the major religious shrine, are there excavations, etc.,  “Experience it!”  We are given lunch money and 20 Shekels (about $5) to bring back some “symbol” of our experience.  We will spend an hour and a half before dinner sharing our experiences.

            Susan and I are paired with two men from the Delaware group, and sent to the Muslim quarter.   We walk down to Herod’s Gate and enter the quarter.  This is where Susan and I got lost on Monday.  Fred and Bob had the same experience.  We all got lost again today.

            Having been encouraged to meet “locals,” we stop to ask directions (a new experience for me!).  We are in a residential area, not one of the main tourist streets.  Ismat is not trying to peddle anything to us.  He lives down the street.  He asks where we are from.  We say, “Tennessee,” and he asks, Memphis?”  We reply, “Nashville,” and he smiles and says, “country music.”  Then  Bob (other one), says, “Delaware,” and Ismat says, “Oh, without Delaware, Tennessee would not be a State.”  We were impressed of his knowledge of the United States.  When we ask about getting to the Temple Mount, he gives us directions, then tells us that access is limited to 8-10am and noon to 2 pm, “or whenever they decide to let you in.”  He also tells us that there is only one access point now, and tells us how to get there.  We tried going up one street where the map showed access to Temple Mount, but guards turned us away.  Without his help, we probably would have missed it, though our class is going there another day.

            We find our way to Lions Gate, to a Greek orthodox church claiming to be the birthplace of Mary, to St. Anne’s and the pools of Bethesda.  After lunch, we go through security (delayed at scanner when electricity went off) to get to the Western (Wailing) Wall, which our friend Ismat told is the only access to the Temple Mount.  We had to go through another security check, and were admitted to the Temple Mount.  Upon leaving (through the gate the guards turned us away from earlier – you can get out, but you can’t get in), we headed back, deciding to go by way of the Damascus Gate.  Up one alley we saw a hand-painted sign, “Saint Peter’s Prison.”  We did not stop, or report it later as one of the major shrines in our quarter.  Although we were headed in the right direction, we struck up a conversation with a school-boy, Heddi, and he confirmed that we were headed the right way and even walked part of the way with us.

            During the reports later, it was interesting to hear how very different each of the quarters are.  Our first impression, walking down the main tourist streets had been that everything looked pretty much the same.

            After dinner, Ophir Yardin, a young Jewish professor and member of the Ingter-religious Coordinating Council for Israel (an independent group still hoping for a two-state solution to the political/social/religious issues here) spoke to us.  He tried to give us the broad perspective.  Israel feels threatened.  The West Bank is a large area, situated high above the narrow strip of land near the Mediterranean.  There are huge differences of opinion in Israel as to what to do, the what and why of “peace.”  He talked about the “Wall” which is actually only 5% wall and 95% fence, and suggested that some would prefer referring to it as the “separation barrier.”  That sounds a little benign to me, especially when you see how imposing the wall is.  Palestinians, like some who work here at the college, who have jobs in Jerusalem, used to take 25 minutes to travel to and from work.  Now, it takes 2 hours (or more) to get through checkpoints.

            We will be hearing more in the coming days.  It seems that there is so much bitterness, mistrust, prejudice, geographical issues and such, that “solutions” will be hard to come by.

Peace,

    Bob

 

           

 

 

           

November 3, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 3, 2009

 

            It poured rain most of the night, and is still raining this morning.  As a result, the few pictures I tried to take are pretty pitiful.

            Today was a day to try to get ourselves “into” the Jerusalem experience.  Andrew began by reading Psalm 122, a prayer for the peace of Jerusalem.  It was a reminder that Jerusalem is a place with a long history, which has many images and many associations to people of several faiths and to people from many cultures.  To underline this, he talked about the many names by which this city has been called, since at least the 3^rd Century B.C.  Then it was known as Salem, “peace.”  Other names include, City of David, Zion, Antioch in Judea, Aelia Capitol, Anasgtasis (“place of Resurrection”), Al Quds (through three Muslim periods), and Capital (now claimed by both Israel and Palestine).

            We were reminded that with a history like this, it is very hard to identify it, and very hard to label those who people it today.  Andrew stressed that we must always see it as a city of memory and a city of hope.  Many of the memories are deep, many are painful.  It is also a city of hope, that always seems to be looking ahead to an ultimate reconciliation.  We concluded with Psalm 87, speaking to the inclusive character of Jerusalem.

            A few demographics:  there are about 10 million people in Israel.  7 million are in the State of Israel.  There are 1 million Palestinians in Gaza, and 2 million in the West Bank.  There are about one/half million Israeli settlers in the West Bank.  In 1948, there were about 30,000 Christians.  Currently there are about 10,000, and the number continues to drop.

            We then went across the Kedron Valley to a convent, Beit Abraham, where the nuns have a ministry of hospitality to people of all three faiths that claim Abraham – Jews, Muslims and Christians.  Because of the rain, we were not able to go to their roof, which apparently has wonderful views across the valley to Jerusalem and the Mount of Olives.

            This morning, Susan and I said that we didn’t really feel like we were in Jerusalem.  It feels like any other city.  On the bus coming back this afternoon, Andrew asked, “do you feel like you have arrived?”  We answered with a resounding, “Yes!”  We are looking forward to the days ahead, and I promise to get better pictures.

    Peace,

       Bob

 

 

           

November 2, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 2, 2009

 

            Reflecting on yesterday, when we drove from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem on a road that belongs to Israel, but both either side is land controlled by the Palestinians: there is some irony in the fact that the news over the weekend was the anniversary of the tearing down of the Berlin Wall, and as we drove, we were between parts of the wall Israel is building between itself and Palestine.

            After breakfast, we walked down to the Old City of Jerusalem – the wall is only about three blocks from St. George’s college, and our program does not start until this evening.  We got a little lost, started over, bought a map and wandered the crowded little streets, with shops selling everything from junk to jewelry.  We wonder how so many merchants can survive selling the same items – rugs, t-shirts, shoes, clothing, olive-wood “carvings,” icons, etc.?

            At 5:00 pm it starts to rain.  We have to go across the way to St. George’s Cathedral for the opening Eucharist.  We used the All Saints’ Day Propers, and even had music (due to travel, we missed All Saints’ Day).  Also photo if All Saints’ Chapel, where they have the daily Eucharists, which I attended when I was here in 2000, staying with a group in a nearby hotel.

            After dinner, we had our first meeting.  Basically introductions.  I think there are 44 people in our group.  There is one group of 18 people from Westminster Presbyterian Church in Wilmington Delaware.  There is one Roman Catholic monk, and the rest of us are Anglicans (USA, Canada, England, Australia), at least 8 of us ordained.

            This program is starting out much more formally then the St. Paul course I took in Turkey in September.  The Program Director and the Dean wore clericals, the Chaplain is a SSJE monk (Society of St. John the Evangelist – Episcopal), who wore black robes (putting Presbyterians on notice?).  It looks like it will be a good group.

Peace,

    Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

           

November 1, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

November 1, 2009

 

            All Saints’ Day, but no Church for us.  We remember how Italians take flowers to cemeteries on All Saints’ Day, as we head for the airport.

            It is a good thing we got there early.  El Al security is intense, but disorganized.  At one point they took Susan’s suitcase away, and it was gone for almost an hour.  The flight was also over-booked, and they were asking for volunteers to fly later.  By now we were at the end of the check-in line, wondering if our seats had already been given away.  We ended up cutting in line for the security check, and still barely made our flight.

            Arrive in Israel, meet some others who are going to be in our program, as we wait for another couple to arrive.  Ride to Jerusalem from airport is about an hour, but takes longer today.  Remember, Sunday is like Monday for us – the first day of the work-week.  “Weekend” here is Friday and Saturday, so we are in rush-hour traffic on Sunday night.  Our driver reminds us that Christians make up only about 1 percent of the population of Israel, and have little influence!

            After Tuscany, the landscape is pretty stark here.

Answer to 10/30 question about garden plants:  Artichokes!  They may be part of the thistle family.

      Peace,

         Bob

 

 

           

10-31-09

Bob’s Sabbatical

October 31, 2009

 

            We woke to a beautiful Tuscan morning – clear sky, mist in the hills, etc.  We pack and head for Roma, where we will stay near the airport for our flight to Israel tomorrow (which means we will not be “doing” Rome).  Susan (Montestigliano) suggests going down the coast road, and suggests we get off for lunch at Porto Stephano or Porto Ercole.  Great advice.  Drive was beautiful, and we found a little  place overlooking the Mediterranean with good sandwiches near Porto Ercole.

            We find the hotel in Rome, I spend too much time finding gas to top off the rental car, and return to hotel to worry about weight of suitcases (El Al has 20 kilo limit – 44 lbs.). 

            Just like home, no trick-or-treaters here (our end of the street never can compete with the Ligons and the Jones').

Peace

   Bob

 

 

 

           

October 30, 2009

Bob’s Sabbatical

October 30, 2009

 

            VERY foggy this morning, but it looks like it will burn off.  We go up to see Susan [the Brit].  First question is about the olive farmer’s name.  He is Aldo, and is 72 years old.  The second question ends up breaking an assumption Susan Cowperthwaite has had all her life.  She has been told (see yesterday’s blog) that she was named after her Grandmother, whose name was “Asunta.”  Susan (Brit) says that she has never heard that, and that “Assunta” is a way of referring to the Virgin Mary, which she confirms with a call to a friend.  Later, a google search confirmed that.

            Dinner update from last night: Wonderful!  The people were fun and the food was great.

We want to follow-up on the olive-oil process.  Susan tells us how to go to the local “mill,” and also tells us that there is a small Etruscan Museum nearby.  We decide to go straight to the museum because it will close at 12:45 pm.  Note: Susan Cowperthwaite is getting tired of going places where one must, “park outside the wall and walk up the hill to the town.”

            Murlo is smallest village we have been to.  The Museum is in two buildings, one of which was a Church.  Artifacts from a town that was built in the 7^th and 6^th Centuries, BC are on display.  Apparently the town burned, and people left so fast that they left all kinds of things behind.  We found a little place for lunch, and then head back to the “mill,” which looked closed when we passed it earlier.

            Now there are cars, small trucks and plastic baskets of olives on a scale.  If we were looking for some “age-old” process, we were to be disappointed.  This is a modern building, with an elaborate series of stainless steel machines all run by computer.   Farmers pull up with olives in baskets (some in bags) that are put on a scale.  They then go inside where they are poured into a hopper, from which they are carried through a washing process, are then crushed, put through a centrifuge which separates the water from the oil, while the rest of the waste is pumped into a pile outside (used for fertilizer?).  

Each farmer’s oil seems to be kept separate, and I assume at the end of the season, the “mill” bottles and labels the oil and returns it to the farmer.  The men at the mill were very gracious – chair for Susan, after indicating the process takes about 1 hour – even though they spoke no English.

            Here is a picture of a garden behind our casa.  We had to ask what the plants were.  Do you know?

   Peace,

      Bob